Subskription 2011
Letzte Einträge - Bordeaux Subskription 2011
Donnerstag, 01.10.2008 - Vintage-Interviews (1): Stéphane Derenoncourt
Zum Beginn der der diesjährigen Weinlese in Bordeaux hat der Weinhändler, Marketingspezialist und Sprachlehrer Andrew Black in seinem Newsletter Première Presse eine Reihe von Vintage-Interviews mit prominenten Winzern und Weinmachern der Region veröffentlicht mit ihren jeweiligen Einschätzungen zum Jahrgang. Die Interviews entsatanden im Laufe des Monats September. Es ist die zehnte Ausgabe dieses Services und ich werde in den kommenden Tagen hier in einer kleinen Serie diese Interviews in voller Länge publizieren. Dabei belasse ich sie in der englischen Originalfassung. So gehen keine Nuancen verloren.

Den Anfang macht Stéphane Derenencourt, der mit seiner Firma vignerons consultants weltweit 75 Betrieb berät vor allem in Frankreich, aber auch in Spanien, Italien, Syrien, Libanon und in den USA. Zu seinen Kunden zählen zahlreiche namhafte Bordelaiser Châteaux wie Domaine de Chevalier, Rol Valentin, Canon La Gaffelière, La Tour Figeac, Pavie Macquin oder Petit Village.

"A traditional, cool weather vintage"

Q It hasn’t been the summer that the Bordeaux growers were hoping for. Are you feeling less optimistic about the 08 vintage?
A I’m still optimistic. After all the trouble we’ve had just to keep the crop on the vines, with all the downy mildew threat and the rain, I think we’re in a relatively good position. I’d even say that we’ve done a fantastic job to be where we are at the present time.

Q But how good are those grapes that you have worked so hard to preserve?
A They still need to ripen. But Indian summers have become one of Bordeaux’s specialities, and I think that with some good, dry sunny weather in the second half of September we can look forward to a classic-style Bordeaux vintage. Deep colour, good acidity and nice balance. The mid-palate will probably be lacking a bit of volume because of the lack of a sustained period of hot sunshine in August.

Q Do you think it will be risky to hang on for perfect ripening with the threat of botrytis, which is already breaking out in some vineyards?
A There is always a risk, and it will depend on the weather we get leading up to the harvest. I have to say that once again this will be “une année de vigneron” –those growers that have worked hard and well in the vines this year will be in a better position to wait for the ripening without too much of a risk, unless it pours with rain of course. You speak about about botrytis breaking out, but I would say the vines are generally very healthy.

Q Do you have an idea of the date of harvest?
A In Pomerol, the harvest should be starting between the 22 and 25 September, which means that in the heart of Saint Emilion it won’t be until the beginning of October, the same in the Médoc. There’s a delay of roughly a week to 10 days compared with an average year.

Q People are talking about heterogeneity. There seem to be differences in ripening and also volume not just between areas but between estates and even plots. Is it possible to pinpoint appellations or zones where the potential is superior to others?
A The young, vigorous vines fared much better, which doesn’t augur well for the complexity of the wines. If you asked me to name a sector which is clearly better off I couldn’t do it. All the appellations are in the same boat. The important thing is to see how things develop between now and the harvest…

Q Will it be another good vintage for the whites?
A First of all, the white crop will be very small. It’s still difficult to assess the potential quality of the whites, but the balances are looking pretty good at the moment. Those musts that I’ve tasted are very aromatic, but you know the white grapes are behind schedule as well, so we have to wait and see there too.”

Q We can be sure, though, that this vintage is not going to produce outstanding, rich opulent wines, can’t we? Can we compare the reds with 07?
A 2007? I can’t say for the moment. But you’re right that this is never going to be an exotic, super ripe vintage. It won’t be an 05, 03 or 00, simply because we haven’t had the sunshine. It’ll be a traditional, cool weather Bordeaux vintage.
© C&D Weinhandelsgesellschaft mbH