Subskription 2011
Letzte Einträge - Bordeaux Subskription 2011
Donnerstag, 17.12.2009 - Pierre Lurton: 2009 ist der beste Yquem seit 1893
In einem Interview mit dem britischen Weinhändler Andrew Black erhebt Pierre Lurton, Regisseur von Château d´Yquem und Château Cheval blanc, den Jahrgang 2009 von Yquem in den Rang eines wahren Jahrhundertweins. Lurton: der beste Yquem seit 1893, eine künftige Legende! („is going to be a legendary vintage“) Und der 1893er ist, wie ich aus eigener Trinkerfahrunge sagen kann, ein wirklicher Wunderwein. Bei den Roten stuft Lurton auch jetzt nach dem Ende der malolaktischen Gärung den Jahrgang höher ein als 2005. Seine Beschreibung der Jahrgangs-Charakteristik klingt viel versprechend: Öligkeit, Wollust, und grosse Finesse („The words that come to mind at this stage are unctuosity, voluptuousness and great finesse.“) Hier der volle Wortlaut des Interview im englischen Original-Text.

BLACK: Immediately after the harvest, many people, you included, were euphoric about the potential quality of the 2009 vintage. Is it really so special and are the wine critics going to be able to rate it even higher than 2005?

LURTON: 05 was an exceptionally high quality vintage and was sold very expensively It’s really very difficult to compare 09 with another vintage.

BLACK :You mentioned in September that 09 promised to have a rare combination of exoticism and opulence together with classic Bordeaux freshness. Now that the malos are almost done, are you still as excited?

LURTON: The potential of the vintage has not changed since the malos finished. However, we have lost a tiny bit of freshness, and we don’t have the power of the 05s. The tannic structure is dense and enveloping. In 2005 there was amore tight-knit density. The words that come to mind at this stage are unctuosity, voluptuousness and great finesse.

BLACK: People have mentioned high alcohol levels in 09. That’s not what you would want at Cheval Blanc, presumably.

LURTON: It’s true that certain terroirs have produced wines at what for Bordeaux is a high alcoholic degree. At Cheval Blanc, it’s relatively high, but not excessive. We have an average between the Merlot and Cabernet of 14°, which is above the usual average, but remember that the legendary 1947 of Cheval Blanc was 14.5°!

But of course high alcohol can represent a threat to the overall balance of a wine. It can on the other hand favour the wine by enhancing its flavours, but we have to be very careful during the ageing process to ensure that it doesn’t result in any heaviness.

The really important thing is that there is enough structure in this vintage to carry the alcohol. Seeking balance is always important, and we were careful to pick the Merlot early and preserve freshness. We also suffered no water deficit stress in the vines, which can cause greater potential concentration in alcohol. Acidity was also preserved thanks to the cool summer nights, so we are a million miles away from a vintage like 2003, which lacked those balancing elements.

BLACK: Cheval Blanc has early-ripening terroir, and your aim each year is to preserve freshness in the wine, so we never expect Cheval Blanc to hang on too long before picking. In 2009, do you think some producers picked too late and lost that freshness?

LURTON: Yes, I do. We had great weather for getting perfectly ripe grapes. I don’t know what some of them were doing hanging on so long waiting for an over-ripe crop that would lose its freshness. Each grower does what he thinks is best, but for me it was a mistake to wait so long.

BLACK: Overall in the region, do you think that 2009 is not as consistently high quality as 05?

LURTON: It’s really still too early to say. We haven’t got a complete picture of the vintage yet. As far as Cheval is concerned though I know already that it’s a great vintage, on a par with the 2005, 2000 and 1990, in terms of quality. The character and style of the 09 is difficult to compare with other years.

BLACK: What words could you use to describe it?

LURTON: It’s powerful, but not very powerful. There’s elegance thanks to a phenomenal crop of Cabernet Franc, which will enable this vintage of Cheval Blanc to maintain its character over a long period. The Cabernet Franc has also brought complexity, opulence and something exciting to this vintage. I’m convinced that Cheval will be a stand-out wine in this vintage. It is in most vintages, but this one particularly, I think.

BLACK: How come?

LURTON: It’s thanks to what I call good “parenting” -keeping a fatherly or motherly eye over the vines at every moment and making sure you know what they’re all up to.
BLACK: We haven’t spoken about Yquem, which by all accounts is very special this year.

LURTON: Yquem 09 is going to be a legendary vintage. We have nothing to compare it with since 1893. We’ve produced a reasonable-size crop, so we can even select severely. It’s hard to find words to describe it –it has amazing concentration and purity. It’s going to be a rare vintage. We’ve never seen anything like it!

BLACK: It was a great year for all the Sauternes producers...

LURTON: Yes, but I think at Yquem we got everything just right. We started the harvest quite early to get the best raw material and stopped and went back in again at exactly the right times. This timing was of enormous importance
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