Subskription 2011
Letzte Einträge - Bordeaux Subskription 2011
Donnerstag, 30.09.2009 - Gleichmässige Reife in Pauillac
Auch im Médoc sind die meisten Güter inzwischen mitten in der Lese. Andrew Black sprach in Pauillac mit Julien Benquet (29), seit zwei Jahren Weinbergsmanager von Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. Er wechselte im November 2007, nachdem Roederer das Château von May-Eliane De Lenquesaing erworben hatte, von Château Réaut La Gravière in der Appellation Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, das ebenfalls Roederer gehört, zu Pichon. Auch dieses Interview drucke ich hier im englischen Original ab:



FRAGE: You’ve just come back from a tour of the vineyard with Denis Dubourdieu and the Pichon technical team. The picking of the Merlot is now in full swing. What’s the mood of the team?

BENQUET: We’re all very excited. This is only my second harvest at Pichon, and so I cannot look back very far, but you can see that this vintage is something special. The ripeness levels are amazing -and the vines are still in perfect shape.

FRAGE: The general impression has been that the conditions in the 2009 growing season were close to perfection for the vines. As a vineyard manager, can you really say it has been as good as that?

BENQUET: We couldn’t have asked for better. The weather has been ideal. It was perfect during the flowering, which of course is very important, and it has continued that way right up to and even during the ripening period. We haven’t had much rainfall – just 50mm over the last two months.

FRAGE: Wasn’t that a worry for you?

BENQUET: The odd plot was struggling a bit and starting to shut down; but we had rain just at the right time to help the vines get back on track.

FRAGE: Are you talking about last weekend’s rain (September 19 and 20th)?

BENQUET: Yes exactly.

FRAGE: Had you started the picking prior to that date?

BENQUET: No, we only started this week (on the 22nd). The rain really brought the vines back to life and the risk of the grapes drying out disappeared completely. There was just the right amount of rain (23mm to be precise) not to have any botrytis. That rain will be of real benefit to the Cabernet Sauvignon, which can now continue its ripening more smoothly.

FRAGE: Was there a bigger gap than normal between the ripening of the Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon?

BENQUET: Actually yes. It looked as though the Cabernet was labouring a bit, but that rainy weekend has changed everything. We’ll probably be able to pick the Cabernet straight after the Merlot now. We’ve just been out in the vines tasting the berries –they’ve really gained in aroma and ripeness of tannins.

FRAGE: How does your team rate this vintage? Is it a Merlot or a Cabernet Sauvignon vintage at Pichon?

BENQUET: They’re all getting very excited about the Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s obviously a good one for both. The ripening is very even –there is no irregularity from plot to plot.

FRAGE: It all sounds perfect, but behind the scenes some producers are concerned about high potential alcohol and unripe tannins. Are you really unaffected by these concerns?

BENQUET: Having arrived at Pichon only a short while ago you cannot help but be impressed by the quality of the terroirs and the condition of the vines. These factors have enabled us to reach very satisfactory levels of 13.5° potential alcohol right across the vineyard -in what has been a dry year. We don’t have that inconsistency where you might have 12° in one plot and then 15° in another. The acidities are good, and the tannins are ripe enough to obtain the silkiness that we always strive to achieve in Pichon wines. The consensus is that we will have the structure and the elegance in 2009 to make a really good Pichon.

FRAGE: With which past vintages are you and your colleagues comparing the 2009?

BENQUET: They are all talking about 1989.
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